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At lightning speed, a curtain of colour then dropped across the sky and covered the stars, before gently unfurling and fading into the ether.As the spectacle of a series of kaleidoscopic patterns continued above our heads, we eventually drifted off to sleep. But even the bed failed to deter us from instinctively tilting our heads upward to look at the sky above. It was then that we were finally rewarded for all our sky-gazing With impeccable timing, a pale gold streamer appeared. Slowly increasing in intensity, a spectrum of green lights emerged and swirled, twirled and looped into the formation of a rainbow-shaped arc stretching as far as the eye could see. At the centre lay an unexpectedly risqu?candinavian touch in the form of a massage bed with a zebra-print cover. A wolflike howl from the nearby trees alerted us to the folly of our actions, and we rushed back into the cabin.On our third day, the clouds finally shifted and the dull twilight evaporated. As the sun managed to ease itself briefly over the horizon, the land was infused by a spectrum ranging from the lightest sugary pink to the deepest magenta.The weather boded well for the highlight of our visit – a night in one of the hotel’s unique glass igloos, designed for aurora-gazing in style.

Beneath an empty black sky, we set off late, shining torches through the woods as we made our way to the remote igloos.Stepping through the tiny blue front door, we discovered that its design was as sleek as the decor was surprising. But there was just a solitary star, a chill in the air, and no northern lights. In between sneaking furtive glances through the window, we defrosted in front of the fire or in the sauna in our log cabin, before indulging in an assortment of reindeer dishes and hot raaku, a warming vodka drink made from local berries.We realised that we were verging on the obsessive when we jumped out of bed at 3am, piled on thermals, boots and hats, and dashed out into temperatures hitting minus 30C, in the misguided belief that the spectacle had arrived. The local reindeer farmer invited us for tea, biscuits and a sledge-tour. Most memorably, we acquired the somewhat random skill of racing teams of Siberian huskies in nearby woodland.But as day gave way to night, we were increasingly concerned with the absence of the promised lights. The daytime – lasting only several hours – offered relaxing respite from the arduous task of knocking back cloudberry vodka cocktails at the cosy Kakslauttanen Hotel while waiting for the lights to appear.The twilight hours were spent weaving through the white wilderness of Arctic forests on quad bikes.

Heavy white clouds rendered the snow-covered land indistinguishable from the sky, as well as concealing the magical effects of any northern lights. There was not so much as a spark in the sky.At first it was the weather. And so we swapped the warmth of the log cabin for the teeth-tingling cold of the night, armed with two torches.Contrary to local expectations, we’d travelled to the northernmost corner of Finland not to extend the family line but for a romantic weekend break gazing at what has been described as one of the most beautiful sights in the world – the aurora borealis.Also known as the northern lights, the phenomenon is the celestial legacy of huge solar explosions, as clouds of particles expelled from the sun collide with gases within the Earth’s atmosphere. “The Finnish say that if you see the northern lights, you’ll soon have a baby boy,” said the flaxen-haired waitress, with a sweet smile and a wink.
Her comment was enough to make me halt me in my tracks and order two more ice-cold Koskenkorva vodka shots. When it could be delayed no longer I glanced at the boyfriend who nodded, getting to his feet. This price includes hotel accommodation in Yuksom at the start and finish of the trek; hire of tents and sleeping bags; charges for any nights spent at mountain huts en route; all food and the services of a cook; and all payments to guides and porters, as well as pack pony and dzo handlers.Other Sikkim trekking companies include Siniolchu Tours & Travels (00 91 3592 225569, ), and Yak & Yeti Travels (00 91 353 202076, ).. This is usually obtained without fuss from one of the local travel companies.Trekking: Harriet O’Brien’s six-day trek along the Dzongri Trail was organised by Trek Sikkim (00 91 3592 220929, slg_tenzing1 sancharnet.in), which charges US$70 (£45) per person per day for the excursion.

It can be obtained from the Indian High Commission (India House, Aldwych, London WC2B 4NA; ; 0906 844 4544); or from the Indian Consulates in Birmingham (20 Augusta Street, Hockley, B18 6JL; 0121-212 2782) or in Edinburgh (17 Rutland Square, EH1 2BB; 0131 229 2144).Once in Sikkim, yet another permit is required for you to go trekking. In addition, a special permit is needed for travel to Sikkim, which can be obtained at the same time as the visa at no extra charge The standard tourist visas costs £30. Onward travel by car or jeep can be pre-arranged with local travel companies (see below) or organised on an ad hoc basis – there are usually plenty of taxi/vans at Bagdogra airport.Red tape: UK passport holders visiting India need to obtain a visa before entering the country. The agent will also be able to arrange the link to Bagdogra for around an extra £100.